The Autowatch range of alarms use two types of remote controls, the older range such as the 76Rl, 77Rl, 79Rl, 176RL, 276RLi, 277RL, 330Rl & 376Rl use the fixed code remotes, these fobs have to be pre-programmed by a supplying dealer. The 330RL can be programmed with any 376-300 fixed coded fob using a five digit code found on the main alarm brain (see locating the override code below).
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The later alarms such as the 88, 160, 161, 172, 186, 188, 236, 246 & 346 use the self coding (randomly encrypted) type model number 225-000 or for early 160rli alarms 202-000 (replaced by the 225-000). Externally both these remotes look exactly the same, the only way to tell the difference is the colour of the led fitted to the older coffin shaped fobs or the code number on the back on later peanut shaped fobs. To code in a new fob into these alarms a 5 digit code is required (3 digit code for the 88 & 236), see below.
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2 button version here
Older coffin shaped remote fobs (above) are no longer available and have been replaced by peanut shaped fobs, however empty cases can still be purchased
Self coded remotes are marked with the code 225-000 fixed coded fobs are marked 376-300.
Early fixed code fob
Which type of Autowatch fob Have you got?
Early Autowatch remote controls use a fixed code while the later remotes use random encryption for transmitting the signal to the main alarm unit. Both can look like the remote in the above photo. The fixed code fob has a red led, the self coded fob has a green led. If the fob you have has a green LED go to the 'Later Autowatch Remotes' section below. For fixed coded fobs please read the next few paragraphs.
On the fixed coded fob the code number is found ONLY on a green, yellow or orange round label stuck on the crystal which in turn is mounted on the circuit board (looks like a flat circular watch battery) inside the remote, the code number can be 4 or 5 digits long. Other numbers whether hand written or printed on the circuit board have no relevance to coding. On later peanut shaped fobs the number is found on a white label (see below)
Cct boards of fixed code fobs:
coffin shaped circuit board
peanut shaped board
If the circuit board inside your remote control does not look like the above please go to the 'Later Autowatch Remotes' section below.
Locating The Override Code for for Autowatch Systems
You will need a 3 or 5 digit code to program the remote into the alarm, if you do not have the code, locate the alarm brain (usually hidden somewhere under the dash) & remove the outer protecting case (if fitted) by unscrewing the four screws in each corner (which some times can be hidden by plastic inserts), once the cover is removed locate the sticker which is usually found on the plastic surround of the smaller of the two large wiring plugs. On the sticker is the five digit code, the model number and a date code. If the code is 3 or 6 digits long please contact the office - Only early (pre 1999) 160Rli & 173Rl alarms had six digit over-ride codes, this code always starts with the number 9, also these alarms were suplied eith the 202-000 fobs (now replaced by the 225-000).
To check if you have the correct code for programming follow these instructions (not fixed coded alarms):
- Wait for the alarm to immobilise itself – I.E. the LED flashes slowly
- Turn the ignition on the LED will be constantly on,
- Turn the ignition off, the LED will now flash, count the flashes for the first number in the override code. For example if the first number is 3, count three flashes of the LED. When the LED has flashed the amount of times that corresponds to the first number of the code turn the ignition switch on.
- Turn off the ignition and count the flashes for the next number of the code and so on until all the numbers in the override code have been entered.
- If the code has been recognised the LED will flash very quickly for a few seconds, you are now in programming mode and the alarm/immobiliser will also be disarmed.
- If the LED has not flashed quickly - start again from the beginning.
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